Interview with Jasmine Mckenna from Fluide

 Jasmine McKenna, Social Media Manager


she/her | @jasandherson

A photographer, photo editor, and artist, Jas is also a fashion designer and senior at FIT in NYC.


When I’m wearing We Are Fluide I feel like a bad b! I found a place where I could express my creative mind set knowing that it would be accepted. As someone who grew up afraid to express their full potential in art I finally moved to NYC living the dream and joining We Are Fluide was just the icing on the cake. No judgement, non stop fun and never ending makeup love! 


YOUR PRACTICE

How would you describe your fashion practice?

I describe my fashion practice as modern sporty meets vintage, everything I create I take inspiration from eras before my time, whether that’s through silhouettes or patterns.

 

Is there anything in this heteronormative universe of fashion which particularly angers or irritates you? Why?

In the past when I would see runway collections I never saw anything wrong with who was wearing the garments or what they were wearing. We grow up being told boys wear “boys clothes” and girls wear “girls clothes. Overtime, through social media and the people I met I learned about designers and models that were bending gender norms. Certain silhouettes like skirts or pants, should not be subject to one gender. I think now we are seeing more and more designers and artist appreciate gender identity, and I want to be apart of that.

On Fluide, you described finding it difficult to express your full potential in art before going to NYC. How has joining Fluide and its inclusive ethos enabled you to feel more confident in your creative expression?

Before even coming to New York City, I was so nervous. The city is a big change where I am from, the people are different, the fashion is different, even time is different it’s so fast pace. I was terrified by the confidence of everything the city had to bring, but once I joined Fluide my confidence grew tremendously. I was surrounded by people that expressed themselves however the fuck they wanted to and did not pay any mind to what someone else had to say. I thought I need to be more like them, just forget about what people have to say and just go for it. I now express my art with colorful makeup, I started to steer away from the monotone looks and bring color into everything I create. I’m a very bright and colorful person inside, but was always afraid to show others because I cared too much about what people had to say.

How would you suggest approaching a gender inclusive garment? Is there anything to avoid or particularly pursue in the areas of…

…Prints?

When creating a gender inclusive garment I don’t think there are prints that should be avoided. I believe it comes down to who the target customer is. For example, I might make a sheer top with green polka dots for a gay fem male that a straight fem female would also love. Personally when it comes to prints I like to research different decades where the fashion was loud through colors and silhouettes, take the 70s for example, everyone from any gender wore bright colors, loud prints, exaggerated silhouettes. While we aren’t in the 70s I have noticed that many people of any gender like to take aesthetics from past decades.

Silhouettes?

My answer is also the same for silhouettes, a silhouette isn’t designated to one gender. Not one gender owns a silhouette style. I don’t think that silhouettes are to be avoided, but there are silhouettes some genders may not be interested in. There is a designer by the name of Weslah, who I love! They create corseted silhouettes that have been seen on men and women. But then take the brand Telfar that has some loser fitting silhouettes for men and women. Both beautiful brands they both market towards any gender, the use of models in their silhouettes is a big selling point and tells consumers that these garments are not for one gender

Apart from fashion, in what ways do you feel you are able to express your gender identity?

Fashion plays a huge role in expressing my identity, but I also can express that with my makeup and writing. When I joined We Are Fluide, I joined it as a photo editor. I was behind the scenes did little projects here and there, but every project I would work on I more and more was falling involve with the use of color in makeup. I was always a natural girl. Only wore brown tones, lip gloss, never eyeshadow. But seeing the use of color makeup artist would bring to the table or individuals that would tag We Are Fluide on Instagram, I realized color can look beautiful. So I asked to do bigger projects help set up shoots, style, and eventually I made my way to be the social media manager, graphic designer, content creator, and occasional stylist. I now wear eyeshadow and glitter! 7-grade me would have never thought. I also write screenplays, I started with creative writing but wanted it to come to life as a visual piece. The best part about writing a screenplay is the character development. Obviously you have to come up with a story line but before I start writing I have to describe each one of my characters from the day they were born up to the event I am writing about. It makes it easier to put down a character in the screenplay so I can easily express their behavior and attitude. I try my best to develop characters that may not fit gender norms, with use of color. This may sound difficult, but I don’t want a character to just out right be like “Yeah guys I’m gay”, while that may happen sometimes, I think most people just express their gender identity, but just living. I like to write about people just living, who happen to be outside of stereotypical gender norms.

How do you see your creative output developing in the future? Is there a specific direction you are following or goal you are aiming to reach?

In the near future I hope to create runway garments for individuals who don’t look like the typical runway model. People come in so many different shapes and sizes, so many ethnicities, and different genders, I just want to be someone that can make people feel beautiful in high fashion.

How do you approach social media and marketing for an inclusive audience?

This is something I do spend a lot of time of thinking about, especially on Fluide’s Instagram. I am constantly writing captions, responding to DMs, and creating story posts. I try to make every response as gender neutral as possible, making sure it doesn’t sound like we are excluding anyone. Along with responses, when posting images of individuals I make sure that everyone of any gender, race, height, weight, etc. is seen as beautiful.

As an insider in the fashion and beauty industry, do you feel there has been progress towards fashion with a more gender inclusive direction? How?

I of course believe that there has been tremendous progress within both the fashion and beauty industry, but there is still a long ways to go. You see non-binary models, you see gays models, you see trans models, but for the most part you only see one of these models on the runway. What about behind the scenes of what it takes to produce a collection? What about the makeup team is it as diverse and gender inclusive as we want it to be? My answer is no. There are so many ways to be gender inclusive and gender inclusivity should be something normal and common.

How does change within these industries need to happen?

I think change needs to happen by allies like myself to include everyone in their line of work. The world doesn’t consist of one gender we need to stop following societal rules and do what makes us happy.

What form of fashion would you like to see more of (such as gender neutral, more bold colours, more skirts for men and so on)?

I would love to see more bold colors. I think there are a lot of people like me that are maybe too shy to wear bright multi color garments. I would to see this everywhere, not just in liberal progressive cities. I also have what people in my city would say a more of a masculine style because I fell more comfortable clothes, but wearing bright pieces and fitted silhouettes in my city could encourage even just one person that looking different than the norms is ok. I hope to kick down more gender neutral doors and include everyone in my art, creations, styles, whatever.

Are there any gender inclusive designers you admire?

I have a few, I mentioned before I love the designer Weslah and Telfar, but I recently have been obsessing over the designer Nicola Formichetti creator of the genderless clothing brand Nicopanda. The first page on their website flashes the words “Inclusivity”, “Diversity”, and “Creativity”, this is a brand that makes garments for any and everyone doesn’t matter the color, print, or silhouette.


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NICOPANDA 

website interface immediately presents its ethos and values with a white screen and flashing words in multicolours "CREATIVITY" "INCLUSIVITY" etc. 


The projects they take on are diverse but follow through with the same aesthetic of fun, playful and bold 





= Seeing this work takes the pressure off of the designs 
= Once I find a direction for creating experiments it won't feel as difficult 
= Like Jasmine does, could I follow an era aesthetic? Could I follow a theme I'm interested in? Could I set myself a question or idea and try and answer this through the designs? 
= Perhaps I should be thinking about what items of clothing I want to produce, and then the patterns or designs that would apply to these first? 


WESLAH 




- Looking at the website designs of these various designers is way of looking at how the editorial video could be compiled 
- This site has a darker, more underground aesthetic than nicopanda
- It contains a journal section with the designer's thoughts, which I think is interesting in revealing to the customer the mind and process behind the clothes and concepts
- It makes the clothing feel less surface level, with more genuine substance 
- The clothes themselves are very underground, almost drag, vampire-esque promiscuous 
- It is the form of the clothes rather than patterns which lead this line, which was presented at an opera fashion show (love that) 
- - Was already thinking of ways in which I could get a relaxed atmosphere at the shoot with all the models I have coming by allowing them to chit chat and have a drink, but perhaps playing specific music would create this environment 
- What if the clothing line transfers from a relaxed day vibe to an evening party vibe? 
- I wear a lot of my evening clothes during the day, and spice up the appearance with extra accessories

- This could show the same clothes being styled for different events and moods, which is central to my and friends' fashion, as we can only afford so many pieces and have to adapt them for different settings 
- As i like both the fun playful aesthetic of brands like nicopanda and hayley elsaesser, having the direction be in between this and the more dark, sexual side would be authentic to me 

- Affordable 
- Day + Night Wear 
- For those who want to wear fun, silly, loud clothes 
- But with this there will be toned down versions that are appealing to others, as this will include the range I found within other gender inclusive brands in my research 

SONG??
Grimes 4am = Moments of ethereal, light singing with interludes of strong party heavy parts, perfect for the idea of mixing both moods (electric feel)
The Crutch Jamie XX = Poetry speaking, ethereal singing, break beat, less of a change within song but may have a more poetic feel (words about god reinforces this concept of people uniting together and a notion of power and force would make the video feel more powerful) 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrZC1Jcv0dw

TELFAR 




https://www.telfar.net/collections/ss2013/lookbook/1

= Telfar website was the most interesting 
= Opens with two people who go from straight faced to smiling through the transition of two pictures 
= Little details which really showed the humour approach of this designer eg. contact page had a person sitting top left corner clapping in a loop video 
= The collection videos were images of clothing above videos of different shows eg. behind stage, the designers getting clothes out and sorting things vs a hallway where the model walks down and the audience is just the camera and viewer (ie me) 
= I like the layering of this direction with the pictures and videos 
= Different videos have different moods eg. former mentioned has a more down to earth approach (almost like the diary log journal of Weslah where the viewer is invited into the designer's world), whereas latter feels more high fashion run way 


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CLOTHING I KNOW I WANT 


- simple graphic t-shirts design for comfortable, casual clothing 

- customised items I find (patterns and prints from charity shops)

(trousers, skirts, shirts, complicated items I won't be able to sew easily and quickly within the time frame) 

= painting over, ironing patches I can produce 


https://craftandleisure.com/painting-on-fabric-with-acrylic-paint-1619/#:~:text=You%20can%20definitely%20put%20your,to%20good%20use%20on%20fabrics.&text=After%20all%2C%20fabric%20paint%20is,or%20GAC%20900%20fabric%20medium.



https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inkjet-Iron-Transfers-Paper-Shirt/dp/B000W4H606


= neutral tones colours for day time and brighter for evening?

= different clothes wouldn't have to be made but the matching with other clothes will emphasise these tones and changes 





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