Interview with Noreen on non-binary interior design/spaces + Developments in planning

  Noreen's work 

 - gender theories and definitions from the critical work of activist Riki Wilchins

- members of the LGBTQ+ community may fit into gender binary stereotypes

with their personal goals of trying to create an outward appearance of being a ‘man’ or a

‘woman’ – whilst gender-queer or non-binary individuals may be seen by the rest of society

as ‘confusing’, as cited in Wilchins’ example of the FTM trans male being rejected from an

event they thought they could attend. Which leads to the importance of distinguishing the

difference between ‘Gender Expression’ and ‘Gender Identity’: where the former regards

how one manifests their “fundamental sense of being masculine or feminine through

clothing, behaviour and grooming” (Wilchins, 2004), whilst the latter means to focus on our

own understanding of whether we recognise ourselves as female, male or neither.

- nuns were forced into areas with enclosed spaces, separated from the rest of the covenants where men could roam freely 

- retail giants’ shop floor plans (i.e. H&M, Primark, Topshop/Topman), not only is there signage directing people

from what is ‘Men’s’ and ‘Women’s’; however, there are also gender-orientated mannequins

(that that have the application of body parts, hair and make-up); the materiality and furniture

dainty, pale and lighter in the women’s section, which contrasts the tough, dark and athletic

aesthetic for the men’s section; and some stores may go as a far as to enforcing gender

stereotypes with colour palettes and photograph imagery.

- forcing those to go to either a men or women section can cause body dysmorphia 

- those who never see themselves represented can also have worsened mental health 

- The unhinged, erratic

nature of the video speaks for how

dysphoria can massively skewer the

perceptions one may have with their

own body,

- “demonstrate our dominance and submission and our status in society… to bring people

together or keep them apart… convey complex collections of rules of acceptable behaviour”

(Lawson, 2001:3), as it can be shown that those responsible for designing these stores are

indoctrinating the enforcement of the gender binary.

- those comfortable with their gender may find it intimidating if shops began to layout clothing in just types of clothes: what if they didn't know what to buy?

- this point noreen makes is valid but somewhat counterintuitive: if shops were laid out in types of clothes rather than gender this would coincide with how many shops are already placed

- the public would not be changing their shopping style too dramatically to how they shop now 

- consequence of avoiding gender-queer and non-binary visibility is the rising number of

mental health issues and suicides. For example, the research conducted by the LGBT

Foundation (a charity based in Manchester) summarises that, “[Transgender] people

experience mental health difficulties at disproportionate rates compared to [cisgender]

people” (LGBT Foundation, 2017: Online). To ignore society’s needs for inclusivity in

everyday design is almost the same as committing a crime of prejudice towards a targeted

group.

- architect group BIRO created a gender neutral shopping experience using colour to divide different wardrobe areas and section the layout for ease of shopping 

- The use of hanging curtains and the soft colours creates a 'soft division' that reflects this sense of fluidity whilst maintaining a sense of privacy 

- Does however exclude people with less money, with the high price tags and expensive atmosphere 

= Using these soft materials and lighting is a really interesting direction, if the clothes I were to design reflected this intimate aesthetic 

= Hanging materials could be used in a way that is accessible for all people (in a way that doesn't appear intimidating in an expensive or luxury way) and is therefore more inclusive 

= suggest this as as concept for space design to noreen

Designing Space for gender equality Manifesto 

1. strive for neutrality 

(eg. no blue for boys) 

2. limit male and female anatomy imagery 

(eg. mannequins) 

3. respect for all people, including religion, backgrounds and ethnicities 

4. use preferred pronouns where applicable 

5. avoid unnecessary labelling 

(eg. descriptions that are gendered) 

= These conclusions drawn by Noreen can be applied to the practice of this project

= Following a gender inclusive direction it is important this ethos is continued throughout all areas, including within the imagery depicted 

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Faye Toogood designs gender-neutral retail spaces for London's Selfridges

"In the 21st century we're increasingly aware that gender is not a binary, and the way we choose to present ourselves as individuals shouldn't be constrained by the artificial divisions of society or commerce," said Toogood.

Masking tape is used to create text and replace logos, and products are all labelled using the same tags.

"I chose to give the space the feel of an archive to reflect the curatorial decisions that go into any fashion edit," Toogood said. "By removing branding, gender differences and merchandising, we allow the garments to speak for themselves."

= Window shop is interesting in that the focus is on the textiles and colours and folds

= These textiles are placed in a way that it replaces the use of mannequins, which typically present stereotypes in gender and body shape in shop windows

= Taking away the brands as well as the gender presentations of the clothing communicates an interesting message on the notion of inclusivity and using a plain, simple aesthetic to create this tone 

= Working with the space in this way would certainly elevate the designs and overall direction of gender inclusive 

= However if my print is colourful and whacky then surely the space should reflect this but in a gender neutral way if possible? 

= These questions are what Noreen and me can discuss further down the line once the design process is underway and an aesthetic is chosen 

= Timetable made for Noreen so she is aware of schedule and what work to produce for when 

12th - 18th     aesthetic initial ideas and experiments 

                       send these to various people, get feedback, choose aesthetic 

19th - 25th     refinement of aesthetic in design 

                       screen-printing of textiles 

                       initial ideas of branding 

                       [Noreen] brainstorm space design ideas (in photography studio and outside)                           fitting with chosen aesthetic and developed designs 

26th - 1st       production of garments + t-shirts (give to Sue + paint on old jeans) 

                       [Noreen discussion] collective brainstorming of overall shoot aesthetic

                       planning of editorial video 

                      development of branding and finalisation 

                       [Noreen] creation/collection of space design items (if needed) + sketches/mock                        ups of ideas

                      Contact models + Book photography studio 

2nd - 8th       production of additional accessories and items with branding(eg. laser-cutting                            earrings, rings, making of fake tattoos, fans, gloves, chokers, socks, nails)

                      [Noreen] Refinements/ Developments/ Creations continue of set design and                              make up initial ideas 

9th - 15th      Photography set up and shoots at some point this week 

                      Editing and processing of photos and videos 

16th - 22nd   Creation of editorial video 

23rd - 29th    Refinements + Additional developments (potential website/insta page)

                      Design Boards 

ACCESSORIES EVAL:

additional items should surely reflect this sense of freedom?

or is this conventional and boring? 

why do fluid clothes have to be made in a way that shows fluidity, if that's not everyone's sense of fashion and if it doesn't appeal to everyone?

inclusive clothing should not be defined by what it is in design directions as this is counterintuitive?

POTENTIAL MODELS 

- Daniel (white, masculine) 

- Joely (white, feminine) 

- Archie (tanned, androgynous)

- Char (tanned, androgynous)

- Halden (white, hippy, long hair)

- Leon (mix-race)

- Lewis (white, trans)

- Aria (Japanese, feminine)

- Isabel (mix-race, both masculine and feminine) 

- Alice (mixed race, pan-sexual)

- rat._.party (collective, contact later)

- equaliser (collective, contact later) 

(contacted)

(confirmed)

(not participating) 

PHOTOGRAPHER 

= James Pickering (straight, male, may not bring the perspective necessary to this shoot)

= Lina (bi-sexual, female, would bring a more interesting perspective)