Interviews with Area Experts - Ben Pechey
Ben Pechey
I’m a freelance writer, fashion critic, proud Leo and LGBTQ+ Activist. F Scott Fitzgerald once said that “You don’t write because you want to say something. You write because you have something to say.” I wholeheartedly believe this to my core. This website is my place to say what I have to say, and I now use my knowledge and experience to enlighten and educate.
Growing up I never saw or knew anybody like myself. Fast forward to right now, and I am incredibly comfortable with myself and am visibly present in society. I am existing and thriving as a member of the LGBTQIA community. I hope that I can be the representation for people just like me, giving them the chance to feel accepted that I so often struggled to feel growing up.
I bring you weekly posts discussing body positivity, gender, activism, climate change and everything else between. I am by no means an expert, but I am just bringing you my opinion that has been honed through my own experiences and collective wisdom.
I know for a fact that I fight for inclusivity in all areas of my life. Whether this is sizes in clothing, gender representation in media, to beauty campaigns that cater to all skin tones. I am not the only one flying the flag for inclusivity, but we forget about the smaller things.
There are so many brands that only repost skinny white influencers, and brands that don’t seem to showcase their LGBTQ+ audience. There are also personal accounts that only seem to support queer people if it’s sexy and conforms to traditional/heteronormative values. The only way we can make ALL people feel accepted is to represent ALL of them.
Probably the most impactful part of being inclusive is knowing when to speak, and when to be silent. Leaving space for others to speak is so important, and we can all do this. When you are spoken over, and not included it can feel awful. I know there are things I cannot talk about, so I don't and make sure that I raise the voices of those around me that can.
Questions
PERSONAL
How would you describe your gender identity?
Non-binary / Trans - its an evolving process
How do you feel about the attitudes towards gender today
We’re so stuck in conflict over the binary, that we’re (trans and enby people) really not loving our lives to our fullest because we’re constantly up for debate - and I really hate that!
What steps do you think are important for society to take to become more gender inclusive?
We need more acceptance, and less need to understand everybody - this will then allow more people to feel free and accepted.
BRANDING
On scale of 1 to 10, how inclusive do you feel branding (packaging design, logos etc.) is in today's western world?
2/10
Why have you chosen this score?
We have some progress, but it is so tokenistic. On the whole branding is still marketed to thin white cis-gendered people.
What form of branding would you like to see more of?
TRUE INCLUSIVE MARKETING. All bodies, all races, able and disabled bodies, a range of gender identities.
Do you feel there has been progress towards branding with a more gender inclusive direction? How?
I feel yes, but only in the sense that new brands are super natural - which is a bit dull!
Below are images of different types of branding for skincare products.
Which appeal to you and why?
I love the medicinal theme of Kheil’s branding - it feels very much like it will work and is first for purpose. Glossier are also a great brand with packaging - that feels clean and purposeful!
Are there any brands you have strong loyalty with and like to buy from that consciously follow a more gender inclusive direction?
Depixym - a beauty brand that is fully genderless, and always had been!
FASHION
How would you describe your style?
Eclectic and personal
When you dress, what are the main factors that direct your choices of outfit (eg. comfort)?
Personal pleasure
Location
The day’s activities
What clothing makes you feel confident?
Bold colours and prints, and things society assumes I shouldn’t want to wear!
On scale of 1 to 10, how inclusive do you feel fashion (clothing, accessories etc.) is in today's western world?
2/10
Why have you chosen this score?
Small steps have been made, but 99% of what I see is still binary gender, and thus nothing is marketed to me.
What form of fashion would you like to see more of (such as gender neutral, more bold colours, more skirts for men and so on)?
I would love to see a collection that is just clothes, wonderful exciting clothes, but that are made for everyone!
Do you feel there has been progress towards fashion with a more gender inclusive direction? How?
Yes, at a high level with brands like Gucci doing a lot of work - but this has yet to really trickle down to mainstream fashion.
USER EXPERIENCE
[ Definition the overall experience of a person using a product such as a website or computer application, especially in terms of how easy or pleasing it is to use ]
What has your experience been with websites and social media platforms when choosing your gender?
Awful - I cannot remember there ever being a form with non-binary as an option on websites. I hate being other or ‘prefer not to say’ it really stings and makes me feel like I don’t exist.
The Facebook group have it, and it feels great.
Do you feel like social media is gender inclusive?
I have no idea, yes in a sense because it is made up of such a diverse range of voices and faces. No, because the algorithm promotes think white typically white bodies.
Do you feel there has been progress towards user experience with a more gender inclusive direction? How?
I don’t think that this has been fully considered at all, it just isn’t a consideration.
YOUR PRACTICE
You describe yourself on your blog as now incredibly comfortable with yourself. What helped you get to this point and what would have helped you develop to where you are now faster?
I ignored what was expected of me, and only listened to my inner voice.
This paired with seeing other exciting gender diverse people, allowed me to explore who I was.
I would have been able to get here quicker if there had been
representation of people like me when I was growing up, this would have made a massive difference.
Is there anything in this heteronormative universe of fashion which
particularly angers or irritates you? Why?
Lack of plus sizing, I will see something on Instagram, and click the
link and it will only go up to a L or 14 - which is so rubbish!
How do you feel the visual language of your style interplays with queer
culture?
Its super connected. My visual appearance does a lot of talking for me, it tells the world who I am, how I approach the world, and what I stand for. It lets other people know that I am a safe queer space, and that I don’t take myself too seriously. These are key themes in queer culture
How would you suggest approaching a gender inclusive garment
Don’t remove gender from the garment, remove your expectations of gender on that garment. Don’t see a dress as ‘female’ see it instead of a garment for someone who likes ‘femme’ styling
Is there anything to avoid or particularly pursue
Genderless clothing does not have to be oversized - I don’t want another oversized hoodie not top - this is so naff!
Apart from fashion, in what ways do you feel you are able to express
your gender identity
Words, and media. I do this through my website, and Instagram!
How do you see your creative output developing in the future? Is there a specific direction you are following or goal you are aiming to reach?
I would love to form my content into a larger collection, perhaps a
book, that would help younger people see the joy in their existence…
Are there any gender inclusive designers you admire?
I love Alessandro Michele at Gucci
Telfar are doing a great job
ANALYSIS
- Ben Pechey wears clothing that presents this sense of rebellion, which is a positive remark regarding the direction of the illustrations as rebellious in tone
- The range of styles of the models that will be presented in the video will also portray a sense of rebellion as they break conventional fashion in students
- I like the comment on knowing when to speak and when to be silent to allow others the space to talk: this could be translated nicely into the editorial video: what if in moments of bustle of everyone was still to allow a moment of focus on one individual, their style and how the brand relates to them
- The packaging side: their comment on the clean cut and working aspect of the product branding they liked shows the focus on functionality eg. Glossier is a brand that focusses on gloss in make up, and so a light more 'femme' approach is practical to the brand
- Pechey also points out that there are a lot of neutral natural brands that although are more inclusive, are also boring
- They point out with clothing that it should be approached not as gender 'neutral' but as items specifically made for target audiences within the femme and masculine
- My direction was to avoid making these specific one-or-the-other aesthetics, to steer away from the categories of female and male, but what they are saying coincides with my thoughts on producing deliverables that simply follow the function and practical
- Perhaps as 'femme' and 'masc' are what people recognise as the two opposing aesthetics, the way Pechey uses these words are not to bind the creative direction towards categories but as a way of making it clear a 'neutral', baggy look isn't the only way of approaching gender inclusive clothes
- They mention they don't like baggy/oversized clothing, but the large jackets I bought were with the intention of fitting all the people modelling and in the knowledge that larger suit jackets with power shoulders was a strong fashion statement in 1980s as a feminist move
It lets other people know that I am a safe queer space, and that I don’t take myself too seriously. These are key themes in queer culture
= This is interesting, as the fun playful direction I have ended up taking the patches, aesthetic and ideas for the editorial video are aligned to what Pechey says in reference to queer culture
= It's interesting they pointed out Gucci doing a lot of work for inclusivity, whereas other interviewees felt the bigger designer brands were simple engaging with this issue in a surface level way for the publicity
= Their point on inclusivity not yet being mainstream is a collective opinion however of all the interviewees
“The House's collections emphasize the dissolving lines of the gender divide in the name of self-expression,” the Gucci MX webpage also states. "Playing with the constructive nature of gender, the MX project underlines the performative nature of what we wear, presenting masculinity and feminity as relative concepts."
Gucci MX divides products into four categories: Ready to Wear, Handbags and Luggage, Shoes, and Accessories. Sizing for the pieces is, of course, gender-neutral as well. Back in May, The New York Times already reported on the gender-fluid shopping section, writing that it was the just the latest venture from Alessandro Michele, the brand's creative director, to embrace “gender fluidity and inclusivity.”
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